P-11/P-40 Trigger Pre-Travel modification

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Before you begin even reading this you should be able to disassemble your P-11 and remove the trigger from the frame (instructions for that here) and be familiar with the parts that will be referenced in the instructions (also here) .

Replacement/duplicate parts to order first
trigger (part 252)
set screws


This modification only modifies the trigger of your P-11 or P-40 (part 252). I suggest ordering a couple of triggers from KT before you even think about starting (they are only $.50). I took 3 tries and used the best of the three (was my second try) so I would get at least 2. You may want to look around the site (and others) a bit and think about what other mods you may want to try and order a few extra parts all at one time because KT has a set shipping charge for any number of parts you order. So for just a few bucks extra you can get a hand full of other spare parts to try other mods on in the future or as a back up for when a spring goes flying (assembly pin spring, hint, hint). In any event this mod only involves modifying the trigger.

I also suggest that when you modify parts to modify the new extra ones so that if you mess them up you still have the original ones and you have not changed the operation of the pistol at all. Plus if there have been any slight improvements or modifications, you will be sent the new pieces and when you finish the mod you will also have the factory improvements (and you have to re function test any way, so why not do both changes...).

You will also need to go to the hardware store and pick up some set screws. I ended up using a Stainless steel 8-32 X 1/2" set screw. I would recommend picking up a small assortment of 6-32 (if you wish to try using a smaller one first like I did) and 8-32 set screws in various lengths (probably 1/2" and smaller, I doubt you would need longer), or you could just get a longer one and shorten it. I used a 1/2" one, but have shortened my trigger and moved it back so your pre travel length will be different than mine and the same 1/2" set screw (while it will still work) may stick out the rear of the trigger, and I just think it looks bad. You want to end up with a pre-travel stop set screw length that (when adjusted properly) will fill up a majority of the hole you made in the trigger. This will help strengthen the trigger and help keep the pre travel stop from moving. You don't need it sticking out the bottom (that would get in the way of the pin that holds the trigger axis in) but try to keep it just under the surface.

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Just to give you an idea of what you will be doing, these pics shows about what you should end up with after drilling a hole in the trigger then tapping it.

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First remove the frame from the grip and then the trigger from the frame. Look carefully at how the trigger rotates on it's axis in the frame, and at what angle the stop will have to have in the trigger to hit the frame and not go into the well cut into the frame for the trigger axis end of the trigger. You want the stop to be as angled as possible without interfering with the trigger axis pin (part 253) on the bottom of the trigger, or going off the ledge on the front of the trigger. You want them to be as far in the direction of the arrows as possible but still in the center of the trigger from right to left. The whole in the first pic is not close enough to the edge. The position of the hole in the bottom of the triger (second pic) is about right. You wan the stop to be as far counter clock wise as possible (looking at it from the left side, like in the third pic). I don't have any specific way of telling you how to measure this (that's why you have a few extra) just hold a set screw up to the side of the trigger to get an idea of where it should go. Then maybe draw a line with pencil or something on the trigger to give you a reference point.

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Now drill the hole in the trigger, I used a clamp and a drill press to line up and drill the hole in my trigger. You could use a hand drill but you must keep it as straight as possible (it does not have to be perfect but you want it as close as you can) and I would still recommend putting it in some kind of vise or clamp. I drilled it for a 6-32 then tapped it with a 6-32 tap to try the 6-32 set screw first. Mine did not contact the frame enough for me (it just nicked it). So then I ran the 8-32 tap through the trigger a few times (I did not drill it again, I wanted it tight) and then set screw hit the frame pretty good. These 2 pics show the 6-32 nylon stop that just barely does not contact the frame.

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Once you get a good tapped whole in the trigger that is centered left to right on the top and bottom, and positioned so that the stop contacts the frame solidly, then you can reassemble the P-11 or P-40. You may have to clearance the opening in the grip that the trigger goes through (in the very front part) for the stop to travel through this same hole when the trigger goes forward. You want the stop to engage the frame not the grip. I had already enlarged my trigger opening to allow me to remove the frame from the grip without removing the trigger shoe. If you must clearance any, you will not have to remove much and you will be able to see where it is hitting and remove small amounts accordingly.
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After it is back together adjust the new stop with an allen wrench so that you have very little pretravel and you may or may not have to apply loc tite to the threads to keep it adjusted depending on how tight your threads are in your trigger, so you must do your own testing and determine if it is needed, or just put some on if it makes you feel beter, I may when I stop messing with the thing...


Some of the reasons for doing what I did, other ideas I had, and what I went through:



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Mine actually could be angled a bit more (counter clock wise in the pic looking at the left side of the p-11) to hit the frame more in the middle of the stop.


My first thoughts were to use 6-32 or 8-32 nylon screws through the trigger to be the stop (much like my over travel stop here). This was because I kinda liked the idea of a nylon stop hitting the frame better than a metal one. But when I drilled and tapped the trigger, the nylon screws were way too tight and when I cut the large head off of them and add a slit with a dremel to the end so I could use a flat blade screw driver to turn them, the ears I made for the screw driver broke off. I could have made the threads looser by running the tap through it a few more times, but I wanted it tight so it would stay put without lock tite. Plus I would have never been able to adjust it after the lock tite set in. Back to the steel stop hitting the frame, I am not really worried about it but if I were I would just get a nylon acorn nut to put on the end of the stop, or maybe some kind of plastic cap.

So I ended up using a Stainless steel set screw with a hex end on it. This made it easy to adjust (even with the whole pistol together) and went in tight and probably will not require lock tite to remain adjusted.

I also wanted to use the 6-32 size (so the hole in the trigger was a small as possible as to weaken the trigger as little as possible), so I started by drilling and tapping that size into the trigger. In my attempts the 6-32 size nylon screw cleared the frame and went into the hole for the trigger in the frame (not stopping the trigger). So just using a tap (8-32 size) I enlarged the hole to 8-32 and then my stop engaged the frame to prevent the trigger from traveling forward.