Shortening the Trigger Travel

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All part number references match these numbers:

My original travel (from where the trigger begins to engage the hammer to when it releases the hammer) was about .9 inches (at the tip of the trigger shoe).

I started by putting a piece of tape on the bottom of the trigger guard to make marks on, to keep track of changes. Then I made a mark where the trigger begins to engage the hammer (first pic with hammer at rest, and second with it just beginning to engage the hammer) . Then you may make 2 additional marks, one for where your trigger breaks now, and another at where you want it to break. I was shooting for about .55 inch trigger pull (third pic) and ended up with .57 inches.

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I tried using rubber bands as the trigger spring when doing adjustments, but found that the hammer would release sooner under the higher tension of the hammer spring, so then only used the rubber bands for a quick reference, and did all checking by assembling my p-11 (without the assembly pin spring and only pushing in 2 frame pins half way to make it a bit quicker) and pulling the trigger with a snap cap in the chamber.

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if you are willing to stop the hammer from hitting the frame with your finger you can skip putting the slide on and just put the frame in the grip to test the trigger pull, but do not let the hammer drop on the frame.

Now take out the the trigger bar and hammer and look closely at how they interact. How the trigger bar catches the hammer. What you will be doing is filing off some of the catch on hammer so that the bar will slip off the hammer sooner. I used calipers to keep track of how much metal I took off making sure to measure the same way every time. The problem with measuring this way is that the bottom point (the curved area that is touching the bottom of the calipers) does not affect the release point. The release point is the catch just to the left of that point, so if you file straight you will have to take off this rounded part first before you even begin to affect the release point. But when you start affecting the release point move very slowly.

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Now file some of catch off of the bottom of the hammer. Make sure to keep it as straight and level as possible. I filed some then assembled and checked pull length. Repeat this until you have a slightly longer pull than you want. It may shorten up a bit when the parts wear to each other. Then I smoothed the area I filed with 400 grit, then 1000 grit then polished with a dremel. This final smoothing with help keep the trigger pull smooth and shorten it just a bit.

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As you take away more metal from the hammer you may (probably will) notice that the trigger bar may not be able to move up enough to engage the notch on the hammer because it is limited by the window opening in the frame. I opened up the window (mostly at the rear) so that the trigger bar can travel high enough to fully engage the catch on the hammer.

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After widening the window in the frame I sanded with 400 grit then 1000 grit until it was very smooth (the transfer bar may slide on it a little so you want it smooth). Then I cold blued all showing metal to try to keep it protected.

After doing this I have about .48 inch pull length at the center of the trigger with very little pretravel and overtravel.

After shortening and lighening the trigger pull, I also clipped 7 coils off of my firing pin spring, more on that here.