Be-Cool Radiator Install



Parts used:

(1) Fan shroud out of a 92 5.0 mustang. This can be picked up at the junk yard, try to get the fiberglass one, it is stronger than the plastic style
(1) 26 X 19 inch Be-Cool aluminum radiator with 1 1/4 inch cooling tubes from Summit (part number BCI-65002).
(1) Perma Cool 24" Frame Rail Transmission Cooler with -6 AN fittings from Summit (part number PRM-1004)
(1) Perma Cool 18" Electric fan from Summit (part number PRM-19117)
(2) Perma Cool 10" Electric fans from Summit (part number PRM-19010)
some aluminum strips from Home Depot 1/2 X 1/8 inch and some 2 X 1/8 inch
(1) strip of plastic mopboard (not sure if this is what it is called but I got it at Home Depot, it is the plastic mop board stuf you might see on the bottom of the dry wall in a public bathroom)
I had some 3 inch aluminum C channel laying around (you could make this by bending some 2 inch pieces or find a place that makes aluminum boat or jet ski trailers and ask to buy a foot of 3" alumium C Channel)



I started by figuring out how I was going to mount the radiator.


In pic 1 and 2 you can see how I attached the Radiator. I started with a 2" length of the C Channel (you could make this buy bending a lenghth of the 2" aluminum into a C). I cut a piece of the plastic mop board to fit into the C (so ther would be no metal touching the new radiator) but it was still just a little bit big and then C channel had to be pinched in the vise to fit tight around the radiator tanks. Then for the top just made a L bracket out of a piece of the 2" aluminum. Then I drilled the C channel for to bolt to the new L bracket and counter sunk the holes from the inside of the C channel. Use a bolt with a tapered head that will fit flush into your counter sunk holes so that when you put the rubber piece in it will not wear through because of a bolt head. When drilling the holes in the L bracket to bolt to the C channel make sure to have the C channel and the radiator far enough from the core support to clear the lip around the hole the air goes through to get to the radiator (look at pic 3). Mine is a bit too far from the core support but might take the L brackets off of mine and oval the holes that bolt them to the C channel to allow this to be adjusted later, but I had enough room so I left it. Then bolt the L bracket to the C channel and glue in piece of the mop board that you cut to fit.

Repeat above for the other top bracket.

For the bottom brackets do the same but don't counter sink the holes or glue the plastic yet.

I put all the clamps on (after drilling two holes in the core support side of all four L brackets), and put a jack under the bottom of the radiator and positioned it where I wanted it in the car. Check things like hood clearance, being level, room to get the battery out, and everything being clear on the other side of the core support. Now mark all the holes on the core support and drill. Then bolt up the radiator and do one last fit check. At this point you can still pull it up and down a bit for best hood clearance. Now bend two more L brackets to wrap around the bottom of the ratiator to keep it from slipping down and drill it to bolt to the inside of the lower C channels. Now counter sink the holes, bolt together, and glue in the mop board pieces so it will not hurt the radiator.

I would not suggest using only one bolt where I used pairs, I origonaly started this way, but things wanted to twist and it was not strong enough.



Now I took it back out and mounted the Shroud to the radiator.

In Pic 2 you can see where I had to cut the shroud for the lower radiator hose. This just takes a few trial cuts and fits. I used a jig saw to do this. I also notched it for the welds top and bottom (look at pics 2 and 3). When fitting the shroud make sure it is over far enough so that the T on the drain clears the shoud and will still turn (see pic 1). Line up the top of the shroud so that the top stock mounting hole lines up with the lip on the radiator (pics 1 and 2), and let the bottom hang down a bit lower than the radiator. Now when it is pushed flush agianst the tanks on each side it will be slightly off in the center on the top and the bottom. Cut three pieces of the 1/2" aluminum 20 1/2" long, mark and drill two holes through all three pieces and the top lip of the radiator (pics 1 2 and 3) that line up with the top holes of the shroud. Now cut 2 pieces of the 2" aluminum 20 1/2" long and drill and bolt them to the bottom lip of the radiator so that they hang down and do not block any air flow (pic 4). Now just drill two more holes in the bottom of the 2" aluminum pieces hanging down to bolt the shroud to.



Mount the Fan to the shroud.

This was the easy part, I only had to bend the two passenger side mounting brackets on the fan to fit inside the shroud (pics 2 and 5). I left the two driver side brackets alone on the fan. Just try to keep it centered and drill the shroud to bolt it up.



I also put 2 10" pusher fans in front of the vintage air condensor. (pic 6) I had to trim the hood latch support for the fans to clear, and make the top L brackets for the fans, then just bolted them to the top and bottom lips of the condensor. I also mounted a Perma Cool frame rail transmission cooler infront of the pushers (pic 6). I had to make a couple of brackets out of aluminum to bring it out from the core support, then connected it with braided stanless lines that get hose clamped to my stock lines that are are cut at about where they cross the sway bar.



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