Hayabusa for sale
2006 engine, computer, gauges, and center frame section
2008 everything else (looks like a gen 2 2008 bike)
Motor is trash, I'm pretty sure I split a piston in half, and now parts are also floating around in the bottom end as well, and the whole thing is locked up. Not sure if the problem started with the piston or the head/springs/valve/cam, but we can be pretty sure that they are all messed up now.
The bike still looks awesome! Everything else works, great project if someone wants to do a motor swap, and if not, I'll just leave in my garage and get to later when some current projects are done (I already miss this bike)
Head was shaved to raise compression a little, better cam, springs and head work.
Dyno tuned 190hp na, 230 with nitrous.
The computer was custom tuned so that activating the nitrous caused the computer to add more fuel through the fuel injectors
Air shifter operated from nitrous bottle with a pressure regulator.
Air shifter has timed hold relay to ALWAYS hold the shift .5 seconds to ensure it hits the next gear
Left switch on handle bars:
Down normal driving mode
Up- track mode, arms nitrous, horn button now operates air shifter
Right switch on handle bars:
Engine kill loop, you connect to yourself to kill the motor if you come off the bike
Double throw momentary switch:
Up: activates purge
Down: activates hard wired gate/garage remotes (I added a plug to the remotes that plugs into this)
Nitrous can operate 2 ways when left switch is up in race mode:
1) Put high beams on = Fully automatic, when you hit full throttle, it will activate
2) Low beams on = manual triggered with pass button (flashes high beams), this requires you to be at full throttle AND hit this button to activate on demand.
Purge set up to come out both sides, and also has accent blue lights
6" Bolt on frame extensions
Extended chain guard to keep things from slinging up
Blue led access lights (remote activated)
Blue gauge lights
Blue shift light (activates 11200, rev limiter 11500)
Low beam HID bulb
Alarm with notification on the remote if it goes off (range about 900 feet)
Manual cam chain tensioner
Lower temp activated fans
Manual override to activate fans
Usb port for charging
Triple tree upper clamp that allows you to drop the front end.
Spacer block for the bars to bring them back up, for a more natural riding position.
Swapped out the inner throttle grip for an R9, this allows you to hit full throttle from a natural grip, instead of having to reach forward before grabbing the bars, in order to hit full throttle
Gel seat and stock seat
Solo seat, and passenger seat.
Larger rear sprocket to gear down a little for better ¼ mile
Speedo DRD to correct spedo for modified gearing
Aluminum plate in place of rear inner fender to protect you if the rear tire blows.
Small air horns wired to normal horn button
Aftermarket 4 into 1 exhaust
Lowering strap, so you can leave the right height a bit higher for street riding, then pull the strap down a bit at the track to lower the front another inch or so easily.
Power 1 rear tire, a good street/strip tire, along with a NEW extra spare rear.